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Introducing the TUDOR Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue

Ellie Cooper-Smith4 Minute Read
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A watch might display the time, but this watch makes time melt away. Pack your bags, because we’re going somewhere idyllic.

Wearing a TUDOR has the power to mentally transport you somewhere—and with the Black Bay 54 "Lagoon Blue", that somewhere is warm, the sun is shining, and waves of azure water are gently lapping against shell-dotted white sand beach. A watch can do more than tell time, it can shift your mindset. With a perfectly proportioned 37mm case and a "Lagoon Blue" dial plucked straight from paradise, this is the ideal complement to seasons full of sunsets, sand, and slowing down.

But it’s not only the case size that casts a spell on those who wear the newest Black Bay 54 iteration. It’s also in the magical combination of the sand-textured dial and mirror-polished bezel, not to mention the five-link bracelet that wraps perfectly around your wrist and feels like laying down in a well-worn hammock laced up between two palm trees right where the water meets the sand.

This is the watch that perfectly captures those dreamy vibes of summertime-forever.

DIVING INTO THE PAST

The Black Bay line was conceived with the past in mind. Honouring the important designs that laid the foundation of TUDOR’s unique aesthetic is of the highest importance. While the Black Bay line has always incorporated signature elements of past TUDOR dive watches, the Black Bay 54 is perhaps the most true-to-form Black Bay to have been created thus far. The Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 is a formidable candidate to draw inspiration from, as it was known to have been evaluated and consequently adopted by the French and US Navies and widely used by diving professionals.

The earliest iterations of the 7922 used a "small crown" and eschewed the later emblematic red triangle at 12 o’clock for a cleaner, more uniform aesthetic. The Black Bay 54 follows this tradition. In fact, the Black Bay 54 recalls a number of small design details that make a big difference. Take the hands for instance, in addition to proportional adjustments, they’re pinched at the base, the same way they appeared in 1954.

The bezel edge has been redesigned as well, with a modernized take on the ergonomic pattern of the 7922. Of course, the Black Bay 54 still features thoroughly modern touches, like a subtle sand-textured dial and a "T-fit" clasp for the perfect fit. And of course, the cutting-edge Manufacture Calibre MT5400.

5-LINK STEEL BRACELET

The Black Bay 54 is fitted with an entirely satin-brushed 5-link steel bracelet, complete with the TUDOR "T-fit" clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5400

The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, with which the Black Bay 54 is equipped, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.

Its build is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point anchoring. This system, together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, enables the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 to function within a tolerance range of 6 seconds (-2/+4) tested on a fully assembled watch.

Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is "weekend-proof"; that is to say, it has a 70-hour power reserve, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Even if you need a weekend away, your watch does not.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as "Snowflake" from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers' watches.

The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over seventy years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today's more rigorous requirements.

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